Tuesday, July 29, 2008

The Calories Lurking in Restaurant Food

It's no mystery why Americans are getting fatter. We're expending less energy to work, play, travel and acquire food. And we're taking more calories in.

And how!

New York City's recent law requiring chain restaurants to post calorie counts on menus has revealed some intriguing -- and appalling -- information.

Some observations:

Studies have shown that even dietitians often underestimate how many calories dishes contain, and no wonder. Applebee's Fiesta Lime Chicken packs 1,290 calories. Pizzeria Uno's Individual Chicago Classic (serves one) has 2,310. Who could eat another bite after an appetizer like T.G.I. Friday's Jack Daniel's Sampler at 2,330?

But It Sounds So Healthy …

Salads come so embellished these days they may as well be dessert. The Pecan-Coated Chicken Salad at T.G.I. Friday's (garnished with mandarin oranges, dried cranberries, glazed pecans, celery and blue cheese) is 1,360 calories. California Pizza Kitchen's Grilled Vegetable Salad is 1,020, or 1,490 with sautéed salmon.

Sandwiches can be a caloric bargain in comparison. At Shea Stadium's Metropolitan Club, the Grilled Chicken Caesar Salad is 807 calories; the Grilled Chicken Sandwich is 340. As veteran dieters know, dressing sends salads to the moon, calorically.

Lightening Up

Some restaurants have had their own sticker shock and started offering lighter options. Così had a nutritionist look for ways to save on every item. S witching to low-fat mayo brought the Così Club from nearly 800 calories to 447. Così's popular Signature Salad (with gorgonzola, grapes, pears, pistachios, dried cranberries and roasted sherry shallot vinaigrette) goes from 611 calories to 371 with reduced-fat dressing and half the cheese." Having to post this information in New York really focused us on paying attention as well," says Chris Carroll, the chain's chief marketing officer.

"A lot of restaurants use a lot of butter or oil in the preparation. Cutting that by half usually doesn't change the taste or the consistency but it dramatically changes the calories and fat," says Healthy Dining Program's president Anita Jones-Mueller. "Some restaurants are really embracing this and creating exciting new items," she adds. "And others are kind of waiting to see if it goes away."

Will posting calories prominently really make Americans think twice and order more healthy items? "Anecdotally, you hear constantly about people who've changed their choices," say Commissioner Frieden. "You go into fast-food places and you hear a lot of buzz online."

Elisabetta Politi, director of nutrition at the Duke Diet & Fitness Center, isn't so sure. "Some of our clients know so much about nutrition they could teach the classes, but does that help them control their weight? Absolutely not," she says.

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