Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Paula's A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin
Glycolic or Lactic Acids (Topical Exfoliants)
For all skin types, it is extremely helpful to exfoliate the surface layers of skin. Whether you use a product with glycolic or lactic acids (or a blend) these alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) work to unglue the outer layer of dead skin cells, helping increase cell turnover by removing the built-up top layers of skin, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface. Exfoliation helps reduce skin discolorations, gives skin a smoother texture, and improves how skin functions. Glycolic and lactic acids also have water-binding properties, making them beneficial for improving dry skin. There also is a good deal of research showing that use of a well-formulated AHA product can increase collagen production.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid (aka beta hydroxy acid [BHA]) works in a fashion similar to glycolic and lactic acids (AHA), but BHA is preferred for those dealing with blackheads and acne. This is because of BHA's four-pronged benefit: (1) it exfoliates the surface of skin (like AHAs), (2) it can penetrate through the oil in the pore (it is lipid soluble) and exfoliate the lining of the pore, unclogging debris that can lead to blemishes, (3) it has antibacterial properties so it kills acne-causing bacteria, and (4) it has anti-inflammatory properties so it helps skin heal and repair itself.
Retinol
Retinol is the term used for the entire vitamin A molecule. Applied to skin, retinol is a beneficial cell-communicating ingredient and an antioxidant. Simply put, it helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells and increases the amount of skin-support substances. In skin-care products it is found in the form of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinylaldehyde. In prescription-only skin-care products, it is in the form of retinoic acid (also called tretinoin).
Vitamin C
One of the most well-researched vitamins for skin, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has multiple benefits for those concerned with reducing the signs of aging. It is available in many forms, with ascorbic acid being the most common (although it is the least stable, so packaging to ensure potency of such products is a major concern). Stabilized forms of vitamin C include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucosamine, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
Vitamin E
Vitamin E is considered an antioxidant superstar in its own right. This fat-soluble vitamin is available in various forms, with the most biologically active being alpha tocopherol. Simply put, vitamin E in all its forms works in several different ways to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage. It also works in powerful synergy with vitamin C, as research has shown that vitamin C can regenerate "spent" vitamin E molecules. However, this synergy depends on using stabilized forms of both vitamins and putting them in packaging that minimizes their exposure to light or air.
Niacinamide
Also known as vitamin B3, topically applied niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to address skin discolorations (often in tandem with other proven skin-lightening agents) and to mitigate acne.
Sunscreen Actives
All sunscreen actives work (to varying degrees of success) to shield skin from damaging UVA and UVB light emitted by the sun. "Chemical" sunscreens such as avobenzone or octinoxate work by converting UV light to heat energy before damage to skin can occur. "Non-chemical" sunscreens (only titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) work by deflecting and scattering UV light before it can penetrate and cause damage to skin. Regardless of which actives you use, you must make sure that at least one of the following ingredients is present to ensure you are getting sufficient protection from UVA light: avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mexoryl SX (ecamsule), or, outside the U.S., Tinosorb.
Source
For all skin types, it is extremely helpful to exfoliate the surface layers of skin. Whether you use a product with glycolic or lactic acids (or a blend) these alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) work to unglue the outer layer of dead skin cells, helping increase cell turnover by removing the built-up top layers of skin, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface. Exfoliation helps reduce skin discolorations, gives skin a smoother texture, and improves how skin functions. Glycolic and lactic acids also have water-binding properties, making them beneficial for improving dry skin. There also is a good deal of research showing that use of a well-formulated AHA product can increase collagen production.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid (aka beta hydroxy acid [BHA]) works in a fashion similar to glycolic and lactic acids (AHA), but BHA is preferred for those dealing with blackheads and acne. This is because of BHA's four-pronged benefit: (1) it exfoliates the surface of skin (like AHAs), (2) it can penetrate through the oil in the pore (it is lipid soluble) and exfoliate the lining of the pore, unclogging debris that can lead to blemishes, (3) it has antibacterial properties so it kills acne-causing bacteria, and (4) it has anti-inflammatory properties so it helps skin heal and repair itself.
Retinol
Retinol is the term used for the entire vitamin A molecule. Applied to skin, retinol is a beneficial cell-communicating ingredient and an antioxidant. Simply put, it helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells and increases the amount of skin-support substances. In skin-care products it is found in the form of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinylaldehyde. In prescription-only skin-care products, it is in the form of retinoic acid (also called tretinoin).
Vitamin C
One of the most well-researched vitamins for skin, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has multiple benefits for those concerned with reducing the signs of aging. It is available in many forms, with ascorbic acid being the most common (although it is the least stable, so packaging to ensure potency of such products is a major concern). Stabilized forms of vitamin C include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucosamine, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
Vitamin E
Vitamin E is considered an antioxidant superstar in its own right. This fat-soluble vitamin is available in various forms, with the most biologically active being alpha tocopherol. Simply put, vitamin E in all its forms works in several different ways to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage. It also works in powerful synergy with vitamin C, as research has shown that vitamin C can regenerate "spent" vitamin E molecules. However, this synergy depends on using stabilized forms of both vitamins and putting them in packaging that minimizes their exposure to light or air.
Niacinamide
Also known as vitamin B3, topically applied niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to address skin discolorations (often in tandem with other proven skin-lightening agents) and to mitigate acne.
Sunscreen Actives
All sunscreen actives work (to varying degrees of success) to shield skin from damaging UVA and UVB light emitted by the sun. "Chemical" sunscreens such as avobenzone or octinoxate work by converting UV light to heat energy before damage to skin can occur. "Non-chemical" sunscreens (only titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) work by deflecting and scattering UV light before it can penetrate and cause damage to skin. Regardless of which actives you use, you must make sure that at least one of the following ingredients is present to ensure you are getting sufficient protection from UVA light: avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mexoryl SX (ecamsule), or, outside the U.S., Tinosorb.
Source
Labels: glycolic acid, lactid acid, niacinamide, retinol, salicylic acid, skin care, sunscreen, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, what works
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