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The cacao bean, from which chocolate is made, is devilishly complex, containing more than 400 chemicals. Many of them can affect human biology and health. Whether chocolate is good or bad for you depends largely on the type of chocolate and the amount you consume.

Fats. About a third of the fat in cocoa butter is oleic acid, the very same monounsaturated fat that gives olive oil its good name. Another third is stearic acid; it is a saturated fat, but unlike the three other saturated fats in the human diet, stearic acid does not raise cholesterol levels because the body can metabolize it to oleic acid. And while chocolate also contains some palmitic acid, a saturated fat that does boost cholesterol, careful studies show that eating chocolate does not raise blood cholesterol levels.

Flavonoids. The humble cacao bean contains a number of chemicals in the flavonoid family. Polyphenols protect chocolate from turning rancid, even without refrigeration. Even more important are the flavanols, a group of chemicals that are responsible for many of the protective actions of chocolate. Flavanols are present in many healthful foods—like apples, cherries, and black tea—but dark chocolate is the richest source.

Amino acids. Chocolate is high in tryptophan, phenylalanine, and tyrosine. Like other amino acids, these nitrogen-rich compounds are the building blocks of all the body’s proteins. But two of these amino acids have a unique property: they are precursors of adrenaline, a “stress hormone,” and dopamine, a neurotransmitter that relays signals between nerve cells in the brain. Scientists postulate that dopamine induces feelings of pleasure. But these chemicals may also explain some of the adverse effects of chocolate, including its ability to trigger headaches in some migraine sufferers, its ability to raise blood pressure to dangerous levels in some patients taking monoamine oxidase inhibitors for depression, and its ability to instigate diarrhea, wheezing, and flushing in patients with carcinoid tumors, which are rare.

Methylxanthine. Chocolate contains two members of this group of chemicals. One is obscure, the other notorious — but both theobromine and caffeine have similar effects on the body. They may explain why chocolate makes some hearts beat faster — and why it gives many people heartburn by relaxing the muscle between the stomach and the esophagus, thus allowing acid to reflux up from the stomach into the sensitive “food pipe.”

From lab to life

International experiments show that dark chocolate has an impressive array of activities: it is an antioxidant that may improve your cholesterol; it improves endothelial function and may lower your blood pressure; it is a sweet that may lower your blood sugar; and its antiplatelet activities could reduce your chances of developing an artery-blocking clot. Taken together, these properties could reduce the risk of heart attack and stroke. But all of these hopeful results are based on short-term experiments in a small number of volunteers. Do these bits and pieces of data apply to real life? Perhaps.

Research suggests that chocolate may indeed have a role in promoting vascular health, but the devil is in the details. The first consideration is the type of chocolate. Dark chocolate appears beneficial, but milk chocolate, white chocolate, and other varieties do not. The second issue is calories. Most trials have used 100 grams of dark chocolate, the equivalent of eating about one-and-a-half chocolate bars of typical size. If you ate that much every day, you’d pack in more than 500 extra calories, enough to gain a pound a week.

If you’re a chocolate lover, choose dark chocolate; the first listed ingredient should be cocoa or chocolate liquor, not sugar. Limit yourself to a few ounces a day, and cut calories elsewhere to keep your weight in line.

For more information about how food affects your health, order Special Health Report, Healthy Eating: A guide to the new nutrition, at www.health.harvard.edu/HE.

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Labels: chocolate, cocoa, dark chocolate, flavonols, healthy food, oleic acid, polyphenols

1. SUCK IT UP

   If your skin can't hold on to the products you put on it, you're just wasting money. "Lock in the benefits of a product's active ingredients by following up with a moisturizer," says Ranella Hirsch, M.D., president of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery. Look for hyaluronic acid or glycerin; they keep skin supple.

2. VOTE RED

   A recent British study found that subjects who ate five tablespoons of tomato paste every day suffered milder sun­burns than those who didn't. Researchers think lycopene, a powerful natural antioxidant found in tomatoes, provides the sun-shielding bene­fits.
   

3. TAKE A CHILL PILL

   Not that you need more to worry about, but it really is true that stress can mess with your com­plexion. Researchers at England's University of Manchester proved it. The tense skin showed a 16.4% decrease in immune-system-regulating cells. Another study reported that stress caused acne to worsen.
   

4. FORGET FRIES

   A group of researchers recently put 23 people with acne on a high-protein, low-glycemic diet for 12 weeks--and guess what? Their skin got much better. Testers had 21.9% fewer blemishes, versus 13.8% fewer for a control group that followed a high-carb diet. (Bonus: the low-carb subjects lost weight!) While the researchers can't say whether it was the weight loss or the dietary changes that helped, it appears that nutrition plays a role in your skin's behavior.
   

5. GET ALL IN A LATHER

   Anytime you sweat, your body produces more sebum (an oily pore-clogging secretion), says dermatologist Audrey Kunin, M.D., founder of dermadoctor.com. So if you're tempted to skip the shower after a lunchtime workout, don't! After any sweat-inducing activity, rinse under cool water with a shower wash containing oil-clearing glycolic or salicylic acid.
   

6. DON'T WASH MONEY DOWN THE DRAIN

   "There's no need to buy an expensive cleanser loaded with fancy ingredients," says photobiologist Daniel B. Yarosh, Ph.D., author of The New Science of Perfect Skin. "They're on your skin for less than a minute, they don't have time to do anything." Adding injury to insult: Some pricey ingredients can actually cause irritation (that would be you, peppermint and eucalyptus). Start with inexpensive face washes and see-through glycerin soaps. Both remove dirt, oil, and dead skin cells without stripping away your skin's natural (and necessary) oils.

7. COVER YOUR MOUTH

   We're talking about a lip balm with UV protection, not ruby red lipstick. Your lips (along with your eye area and upper chest) have some of the thinnest skin on your body, so they need extra shielding. That's bad news, because "when skin cancer originates from the lips, it's especially aggressive and has a higher risk of spreading," says Erin Welch, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center.
   

8. TRY SOME CRUNCHES

   You could fill an entire Whole Foods produce aisle with the reams of research showing that fruits and vegetables protect and restore the skin. So down a rainbow's worth every day, and seek out edibles packed with vitamins A and C (both are antioxidants). Particularly good: leafy greens, cantaloupe, citrus fruits (especially oranges), blueberries, strawberries, and bell peppers.

9. USE AN ANTI-AGER--NOW!

   Don't wait for the first crow's feet to appear before you reach for that little tube. "Even women in their twenties should be using a topical retinoid--unless they're pregnant or nursing," says Fran­cesca Fusco, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine. Here's why: Retinoids, which contain vitamin A, are one of the most potent agents for preventing and reversing sun damage and signs of aging. And, says Hirsch, "they're the ultimate multi­tasker. They speed skin renewal by shedding dull, pore-clogging cells and increase collagen production to prevent wrinkles." Ask your doctor about a retinoid prescription or try an OTC.

10. GOT MILK? GET SOY

    If you battle breakouts, milk could be adding to your troubles. Three large studies have found that the more white stuff teens drink, the worse their acne gets. Researchers say hormones that occur naturally in cow juice may be to blame, and they believe women in their twenties and thirties could also be susceptible.
    

11. FIGHT THE FUZZ

    Painless hair removal sounds about as legit as those Nigerian e-mail scams. But this is one investment you won't regret: Studies have shown that Eflornithine HCl, a prescription cream sold under the name Vaniqa, reduced hair on the chin and upper lip for nearly 60% of women tested. And in two separate studies, using the cream with laser hair removal was more effective than either treatment alone.

12. SWALLOW SOME SUN PROTECTION

    A study from the Queensland (Australia) Institute of Medical Research found that people who regularly took some OTC pain relievers, including aspirin, have a lower risk of developing squamous-cell carcinoma, a common form of skin cancer. While the evidence doesn't justify popping pills just to protect your skin, it's one more reason to treat your aches and pains rather than power through them.

13. GET THE RED OUT

    For the estimated 14 million people in the U.S. with rosacea--the condition whose symptoms can be triggered by alcohol, spicy food, exercise, and sun exposure--their reddened skin can feel like a scarlet letter. Researchers have found that when rosacea sufferers wash their faces with a sonic skin-care brush, their skin calms down. The theory is that the gentle exfoliation allows skin treatments to be absorbed more effectively to put out facial fires.

14. GO AU NATUREL

    There are more skin-care products claiming to be "natural" or "organic" than there are reality-TV stars. If environmental and purity standards are important to you, consider buying products made in Europe. Companies overseas making eco claims trace ingredients back to their sources to verify their natural origins. A few of the brands that do: Lavera, Weleda, and Dr. Hauschka Skincare. And while you're at it: On products from the U.S., look for the National Products Association's new Natural Seal; it certifies that 95% of the ingredients are truly natural and pose no suspected human health risks.

15. DON'T FEEL THE BURN

    Do you really need a separate eye cream? Actually, yes. "The skin around your eyes is delicate and needs to be treated gently," Fusco says. Eye creams contain lower levels of potentially irritating ingredients, such as retinol, AHAs, and glycolic acid, than products designed for the face.

16. DOUBLE YOUR COVER

    "To get a decent amount of UV protection on your face, you'd need to coat your skin with at least a tablespoonful of sunscreen that has an SPF of at least 30," says Sandra Marchese Johnson, M.D. But who wants to layer on that much lotion? An easy solution: Apply a coat, then follow with a foundation infused with sunscreen or a mineral powder containing titanium or zinc oxide, natural barriers to UV rays.

17. SHINE UP THOSE SHINS

    "Cuts, scratches, and scrapes below the knee take a long time to heal and can be prone to infection, since they're an easy entry point for germs," says Doris Day, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at the NYU Medical Center. Prevent the little cracks that allow bacteria to enter your skin by smoothing on a moisturizing cream every night; to prevent nicks, use a razor with built-in moisture strips; and don't shave your legs for two or three days before a pedicure (salon whirlpool footbaths can be a breed­ing ground for bacteria).

18. DON'T COMPLICATE THINGS

    The average adult uses at least 7 skin-care products a day--cleansers, moisturizers, exfoliators, and serums included. To prevent in­gredient overload and reduce irritation, Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D., editor-in-chief of the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, advises limiting your skin-care routine to items that contain no more than 10 ingredients apiece. According to Draelos, the fewer ingredients there are in a product, the less likely it is to cause a problem. "Wait at least five minutes between each application" Fusco says. "Otherwise, you'll dilute the effects of the previous one." Spread out your morning skin-care routine so your serum has time to sink in before the last hour of the Today show.

19. BE A SOAP STAR

    When you sleep, lotions, hair gels, and oils sweat off of your body and onto your linens. Kenneth Beer, M.D., clinical instructor in dermatology at the University of Miami, advises washing your sheets weekly. At the very least, put on a fresh pillowcase to keep the gunk (and the bacteria that eat the gunk) from clogging your pores.

20. IF YOU FAKE IT, DON'T BAKE IT

    How's this for unfunny irony: For the first eight hours or so after you apply self-tanner, your skin is especially susceptible to free-radical damage from sunlight, ac­cording to a 2007 German study. Forty minutes after researchers treated skin samples with the ­bronzing ingredient in self-­tanners, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), elevated levels of free radicals (180 percent more than untreated skin!) formed during sun exposure. Another self-tanner ingredient, erythulose, produced a similar response. Researchers suspect that when the bronzer interacts with the skin, a chemical forms that generates free radicals when exposed to UV light. The safe way to get a faux glow: Avoid excessive sun exposure for at least 12 hours after applying a self-tanner.

21. KNOW YOUR NUMBERS

    You might think slathering on a high SPF number is the most important factor for sun protection, but you'd be wrong. An SPF of 15 blocks 94% of burning UVB rays; jump to SPF 30 and you'll get 98% coverage. Going to 50 adds just 1% more coverage. Smarter choice: A broad-spectrum sunscreen with zinc oxide and stabilizing ingredients that prevent UV blockers from breaking down in sunlight. Look for Helioplex or mexoryl.

22. RISE, BUT DON'T SHINE

    While you're sleeping, havoc may be breaking out on your face. Hormonal surges during sleep cause your sebaceous glands to pump oil--and you end up shinier than the Harry Winston showroom. Those cursed with oily skin and breakouts can fight acne and grease slicks before they strike with an overnight treatment.
    

23. STEER CLEAR OF STINKY BUTTS

    Here's new info about how hard smoking can be on your looks: A 2007 study found that smoking ages the skin on your body that the sun doesn't even see. Researchers found that smokers had more pronounced wrinkles than non-puffers on areas of the body usually untouched by UV rays, like the inner arms. "It seems that smoking accelerates the aging process," says Yolanda Rosi Helfrich, M.D.

24. GO AHEAD--GET SOME GODIVA

    Studies show that a few pieces of the dark stuff (milk chocolate has too much fat and sugar) will arm your skin with additional flavonols, protective nutrients that researchers believe absorb UV light and increase blood flow to the skin, improving its appearance. In one German study, women had flavonoid-­enriched cocoa every day for 12 weeks, and afterward their skin was softer, less irritated, and up to 25% less sensitive to sun damage when exposed to ultraviolet light. Sweet!

25. DON'T STRIP FOR JUST ANYONE

    We're not knocking your trusted doc, but dermatologists really are the best at knowing which growths are worrisome and which are harmless. A survey in the Journal of General Internal Medicine found that derms had significantly higher accuracy in identifying abnormal skin growths than primary-care physicians. Melanoma, the most serious form of skin cancer, is the third most common cancer in women ages 20 to 39, so book your skin screening now.

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Labels: dermatology, flavonols, healthy diet, Helioplex, lycopene, skin care, study, Vitamins