Monday, January 12, 2009

It's Cold and Gray, But You Sunscreen Should Stay!

Winter means cold, windy, snowy weather without much sunlight to offset the chill. With less time spent outside and a minimal amount of exposed skin, you may have abandoned daily use of sunscreen. After all, if you’re rarely outside and you’re all bundled up when you do venture out, what’s the point, right? Wrong! Although the sun may not be shining and the hours of daylight are fewer than during spring and summer, abandoning your daily sunscreen habit would be a skin care (meaning antiwrinkle) mistake.

Here’s why:

Even when you’re clothed in layers to defend against the cold, chances are good that a portion of your face, if not all of it, is still exposed. That means damage is still taking place if you didn’t apply sunscreen. Whether it’s the middle of January or you’re heading to the beach in June, you need sunscreen 365 days a year. Of course, in the summer months and in climates that are sunny year-round you have almost daily reminders as to why you should protect your skin from UV damage. But what you must remember when clouds prevail or the weather turns cold and gray are three basic facts about UV damage:

1. Sun damage is about your skin seeing daylight not just “sunshine”.

2. Sun damage begins within the first minute of unprotected exposure.

3. The bad rays of the sun penetrate windows.

I know winter weather can be deceptive to say the least, because without question your skin is not being exposed to the same intense radiation you’ll get in summer or sunny climates. However, even though you cannot feel the sun warming your skin (and may not even be able to see it through the thick cloud cover that’s overstayed its welcome) ultraviolet light is still present and still capable of harming your skin. Ignoring sunscreen during winter months just doesn’t make sense, especially if part of your skin care concern is about preventing or reducing wrinkles.

Still not convinced?

You may not know that the sun’s aging UV rays are no match for cloud cover. Clouds offer some UV protection, but enough skin-damaging rays break right through dreary winter clouds that damage will still occur. It’s also critical to keep in mind that snow is an excellent UV light reflector. So depending on where you live or where you are vacationing not only are UVA rays bombarding your skin from above, but they’re bouncing off the glaring white snow and hitting you from below, too. And for all of you skiers out there, don’t forget that altitude is also a sun enhancer. For every 1,000-foot increase in altitude the ultraviolet radiation potency increases by 4%.

If you’re spending little time outdoors and getting through the typical cold, gray winter months inside a toasty, heated room, you may want to change the sunscreen you use. For example, it may make good sense for you to apply a sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater during summer months or in sunny climates; however, a high SPF rating becomes extraneous when you’re spending most of your daylight hours indoors and the sun isn’t shining; there just isn’t that much time for significant UV light exposure. Of course I’m not implying you should skip sunscreen (no way!), but you’ll likely be just fine applying one rated SPF 15. Regardless of whether you choose to decrease your SPF protection or not, you would never want to go lower than using a sunscreen rated SPF 15. Also, you still have to make sure to apply sunscreen liberally and only use one that contains one or more of the active ingredients that ensures sufficient UVA protection: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone (sometimes listed as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), ecamsule (Mexoryl SX) or Tinosorb.

It is easy to take the approach that when sunlight is out of sight the need to protect yourself from it is, to finish the phrase, out of mind. It also doesn’t help that between the end of summer and onset of autumn, sunscreen displays and promotions in stores vanish. It seems that as far as the retail industry (and many fashion magazines) are concerned, you only need sunscreen when it’s sunny, and mostly that means summertime. Don’t become complacent about sunscreens just because the stores and media are. It’s a daily habit everyone should stick with not only for maintaining skin’s youthful appearance (and preventing further sun damage) but for its overall health. This and every winter, the goal is to be as sun smart as you are when sunny days are once again the norm.

Source

Labels: , , , , , , ,


Monday, December 15, 2008

Skeptical? Do Your Own Research....

A reporter from US News and World Report called me for an interview about toxins and how or if skin-care products could purge them from skin. I appreciated how this reporter framed her question; she asked if it was possible.

Much like any myth, if you hear or read about it often enough it becomes fact in the mind of many consumers. Once that happens they are eager to seek out the benefits of what amounts to little more than snake oil. Purging toxins from the body and skin is equal to the perceived need to drink lots of water (and often too much water) to keep skin hydrated. Neither is based on fact. Just like the medical world discourages people from smoking and over-eating, or it encourages exercise and other beneficial behavior in the most direct campaigning possible (with solid research and studies of why you should follow their advice), so it’s no surprise the medical field hasn’t jumped with agreement on the “let’s purge toxins” bandwagon. If purging toxins from your body could help then physicians would be at the forefront of getting the information out to you (as soon as it was shown to be true). But truth doesn’t always sell products.

When it comes to fiction, snake oil salespeople are supreme at quick fixes and euphoria. I love the drink more water example, because if your water intake is greater then what your body needs all you do is go to the bathroom more. Nothing in your body changes, it doesn't change the status of "toxins" in your body or how dry your skin is. Dry skin for most adults is the result of sun damage, genetics, health issues, certain medications, and their environment, not water intake. Believe me, I wish alleviating dry skin was as easy as increasing water intake!

In terms of skin and the purging of toxins we move into the absurd. At least with routine (not excessive) water intake it helps to stay hydrated and not be thirsty. When it comes to purging toxins from the skin there isn't a shred of evidence it is even possible, let alone helpful. Yet somehow sucking toxins out of your pores or between skin cells has become a basic part of many women’s attempt to achieve flawless skin. As a result of this flawed belief, detoxifying skin as sold by the cosmetics industry or earnest spa attendants and estheticians and the vitamin/herbal supplement world has become a sizable business.

And exactly what is a toxin? What you may hear are more general, vague terms such as bacteria, airborne pollutant particulates from cars and city life, bad fats (this is a big lie in cellulite treatments), faulty lymph systems that build up who knows what, even fast food and secondhand smoke requires purging in this part of the cosmetic industry. Listening to all of this is enough to make some people want to live in a sterilized, airtight bubble for the sake of whole body purity, but there’s no need to take such a drastic step.

Without ever doing even basic testing, the people selling these detoxifying skin-care products or treatments leave it up to their imagination and they are adept at creating imaginary, unspecified toxins that are causing wrinkles, open pores, oily skin—you name the skin care complaint—and purging the skin is supposed to help. That expensive spa treatment wrapping your body in herbs, salts, fragrant oils, clay, or minerals might feel good and for a short time make your skin feel smooth, but in reality no skin condition has changed: your wrinkles haven’t gone away, cellulite is still there, pores haven’t changed, yet your pocketbook is lighter.

Many of these products claiming to detox the system, at least as far as the cosmetics industry and spa world is concerned, are fairly benign and do little, if any, harm. Overheating the body with saunas, Jacuzzis, and facial steaming can cause more problems than they help by damaging the skin’s ability to hold moisture, causing capillaries to surface, and increasing oil production. Putting fragranced salts into your bath can irritate the vaginal skin lining. Mostly it is just a waste of money and following myths isn’t a recipe for good skin care.

What has me concerned is some research I saw on really dangerous snake oil treatments as reported on a blog/podcast site at http://skeptoid.com, which had several posts written by Brian Dunning, a computer scientist who debunks pseudoscience reports as a hobby (I confirmed that the content is accurate and all quoted material below is from the author’s blog):

Mucoid plaque is supposedly a toxin naturopaths and herbal charlatans say everyone has growing inside their bowels; in fact they are created by the pill sold to purge them. In other words, the supposed cure is causing the problem making people assume the malady is real.

What you get to cure mucoid plaque is “…a bowel cleansing pill, said to be herbal, which causes your intestines to produce long, rubbery, hideous looking snakes of bowel movements, which they call mucoid plaque. There are lots of pictures of these on the Internet, and sites that sell these pills are a great place to find them. Look at DrNatura.com, BlessedHerbs.com, and AriseAndShine.com, just for a start.”

“Imagine how terrifying it would be to actually see one of those come out of your body. If you did, it would sure seem to confirm everything these web sites have warned about toxins building up in your intestines. But there's more to it. As it turns out, any professional con artist would be thoroughly impressed to learn the secrets of mucoid plaque (and, incidentally, the term mucoid plaque was invented by these sellers; there is no such actual medical condition). These pills consist mainly of bentonite, an absorbent, expanding clay similar to what composes many types of kitty litter. Combined with psyllium, used in the production of mucilage polymer, bentonite forms a rubbery cast of your intestines when taken internally, mixed of course with whatever else your body is excreting. Surprise, a giant rubbery snake of toxins in your toilet.”

“It's important to note that the only recorded instances of these "mucoid plaque" snakes in all of medical history come from the toilets of the victims of these cleansing pills. No gastroenterologist has ever encountered one in tens of millions of endoscopies, and no pathologist has ever found one during an autopsy. They do not exist until you take such a pill to form them. The pill creates the very condition that it claims to cure. And the results are so graphic and impressive that no victim would ever think to argue with the claim.”

Another detoxing gimmick I came across is from the electrical foot bath products on the market. “The idea is that you stick your feet in the bath of salt water, usually with some herbal or homeopathic additive, plug it in and switch it on, and soak your feet. After a while the water turns a sickly brown, and this is claimed to be the toxins that have been drawn out of your body through your feet. One tester found that his water turned brown even when he did not put his feet in. The reason is that electrodes in the water corrode via electrolysis, putting enough oxidized iron into the water to turn it brown. When reporter Ben Goldacre published these results in the Guardian Unlimited online news, some of the marketers of these products actually changed their messaging to admit this was happening — but again, staying one step ahead — now claim that their product is not about detoxification, it's about balancing the body's energy fields: Another meaningless, untestable claim.”

“But detoxifying through the feet didn't end there. A newcomer to the detoxification market is Kinoki foot pads, available at BuyKinoki.com and many drugstores. These are adhesive gauze patches that you stick to the sole of your foot at night, and they claim to ‘draw toxins’ from your body. They also claim that all Japanese people have perfect health, and the reason is that they use Kinoki foot pads to detoxify their bodies, a secret they've been jealously guarding from medical science for hundreds of years. A foolish claim like this is demonstrably false on every level, and should raise a huge red flag to any critical reader. Nowhere in any of their marketing materials do they say what these alleged toxins are, or what mechanism might cause them to move from your body into the adhesive pad.”

Kinoki foot pads contain unpublished amounts of vinegar, tourmaline, chitin, and other unspecified ingredients. Tourmaline is a semi-precious gemstone that's inert and not biologically reactive, so it has no plausible function. Chitin is a type of polymer used in gauze bandages and medical sutures, so naturally it's part of any gauze product. They probably mention it because some alternative practitioners believe that chitin is a ‘fat attractor’, a pseudoscientific claim which has never been supported by any evidence or plausible hypothesis. I guess they hope that we will infer by extension that chitin also attracts ‘toxins’ out of the body. Basically the Kinoki foot pads are gauze bandages with vinegar. Vinegar has many folk-wisdom uses when applied topically, such as treating acne, sunburn, warts, dandruff, and as a folk antibiotic. But one should use caution: Vinegar can cause chemical burns on infants, and the American Dietetic Association has tracked cases of home vinegar applications to the foot causing deep skin ulcers after only two hours.”

“Since the Kinoki foot pads are self-adhesive, peeling them away removes the outermost layer of dead skin cells. And since they are moist, they loosen additional dead cells when left on for a while. So it's a given that the pads will look brown when peeled from your foot, exactly like any adhesive tape would; though this effect is much less dramatic than depicted on the TV commercials, depending on how dirty your feet are. And, as they predict, this color will diminish over subsequent applications, as fewer and fewer of your dead, dirty skin cells remain. There is no magic detoxification needed to explain this effect.”

I’ll end this article by coming full circle back to skin care. Trying to eliminate wrinkles and other skin woes with false hopes that involve throwing your money down the toilet on products that can’t help doesn’t really make sense. When there are brilliant things you can do your skin, wasting money isn’t the way to go. Purging yourself of the myths the industry loves instigating and perpetuating and learning what you really should do instead is the best way to take care of your skin.

Source

Labels: , , , , , ,


Friday, June 27, 2008

What Really Happens to Skin When We Exfoliate

Most of my readers know about the importance of routine exfoliation, especially as far as using a well-formulated AHA or BHA product is concerned. The benefits are apparent within days of use, and skin continues to improve with ongoing use. But what’s actually occurring when we apply an exfoliant?

Well, it depends on what method of exfoliation you use! Generally speaking, the concept is that the top dead layer of normal skin (called the stratum corneum) sheds on a regular basis (thousands and thousands of skin cells every few minutes). This shedding process is due to the physiology of skin (how skin cells function and grow). New skin cells are produced in the lower layers of skin (the stratum basal layer); they then move to the surface, changing shape as they go, eventually dying and forming the outer, protective layer of skin. These dead skin cells on the surface are eventually shed as other cells from the lower layers travel to the surface and push them off, creating new “dead” layers of skin each time.

When we are young skin cells are regenerated and turn over very quickly, about once a week for children. As you age, the rate of skin cell renewal changes ranging from about every three weeks through our teens and 20s, and then it slows as we age with the rate varying depending on the shape of skin (primarily meaning skin that hasn’t been sun damaged or lost estrogen). Sun damage and stages of menopause reduces the ability of skin cells to reproduce in a healthy normal manner. Other than being smart about sun protection, considering various options of hormone replacement therapy, using skin care products laden with antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients, or using a prescription retinoid such as tretinoin there isn’t much else that can help improve cell production.

Separate from the regeneration of skin cells in the lower layers of skin, the shedding process on the surface of skin can also become inefficient causing a build up of skin on the surface. Sun damage, loss of estrogen, dry skin, oily skin, and disorders such as psoriasis or rosacea can all effect how “smoothly” this natural exfoliation process takes place. When normal or healthy exfoliation doesn’t happen, skin can become rough, scaly, thickened, discolored, and look more lined. Different forms of exfoliation help to remove the built up outer layer of skin to uncover a more normal, “younger” looking layer hiding beneath. The most effective skin-care options for helping skin with this essential function are a well-formulated (meaning pH-correct) alpha hydroxy acid (AHA—the ingredient on the label would be glycolic acid, lactic acid, or gluconoalactone) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA—salicylic acid is the only BHA ingredient).

AHAs and BHA are available from several cosmetic brands, including my line. Using such products on a routine basis (which for some may mean once or twice daily, others every other day, or just twice per week) helps loosen and dissolve overly thickened, built-up, stagnant dead skin cells that are getting in the way of the healthier skin cells underneath. An AHA or BHA product, or even a topical scrub (though this is far less effective due to the way it abrades skin), hastens the removal of these dead skin cells.

When we help the outer layer of skin function more normally, your face can truly look younger. The best analogy I can think of is to compare it to the heels of your feet. Before you get a pedicure the built-up dead layer of skin on your heels looks dry, rough, discolored, scaly, and lines are pronounced. Once that layer is removed, and it can be removed fairly aggressively without damaging anything, your heels look much better. Moreover, once you apply moisturizer, which can now absorb better because it hasn’t been blocked by the proliferation of overproduced skin cells, viola—you have “younger”-looking feet. I’m not suggesting we should be that aggressive from the neck up or on most parts of your body, but the same benefit of exfoliating the feet holds true for the face, you just have to be gentler than you are with your heels.

Exfoliation for facial skin can also unclog pores by keeping dead skin cells from blocking the pore opening so sebum (oil) can flow more normally, which helps reduce blemishes and blackheads and it also allows antibacterial agents penetrate to where the bacteria causing acne is hiding.

What about exfoliating too often? Does it hinder or harm cell production?

Some of you have asked me about something known as the Hayflick Limit. The Hayflick response is a phenomenon that explains how many times skin cells will be reproduced. There seems to be a preset genetic determination of the number of times a skin cell will be regenerated. This turnover limit is only about what happens in the lower layer of skin where skin cells are produced (the basal layer). What happens on the surface in regard to exfoliation doesn’t affect the number of times new skin cells are created. Exfoliation is strictly about the dead surface layer of skin and that doesn’t get anywhere near the lower layers where new skin cells are being reproduced. Removing top layers of skin doesn’t cause new skin cells to be formed; the two functions are not related. So you don’t need to worry about damaging new skin cells by using topical exfoliants. You do want to be careful to avoid exfoliants that are too strong or too abrasive because of the irritation and inflammation such products cause; this can harm skin more than help it, but that still doesn’t affect cell regeneration.

You may have heard or read that some cosmetic companies are proclaiming people should stop exfoliating skin. The reasoning is that by doing so you hold on to your epidermal (surface) cells longer, which creates a more youthful look. My response to any company recommending this course of action is that they don’t know what they are talking about. There is no reason to preserve our epidermal cells (the outer layers of skin), they die and shed normally! Routine exfoliation just helps them do it in a healthier, more normal manner. What they are confusing is the notion of wanting to preserve the basal layer of skin where skin cells are regenerated, but that is a genetic trigger and not something related in any way to how the surface of skin functions. If there is research showing that exfoliation changes cell regeneration I have never seen it, but I have seen lots of research showing that exfoliation is incredibly beneficial for skin. There is even research showing glycolic acid can reduce skin cancer occurrences, which is astounding.

For the health and appearance of your skin exfoliation is a key component. It is necessary for most all skin types and is as basic as a gentle cleanser, sunscreen, and the need for skin to get topically applied antioxidants and cell communicating ingredients!

Thank you, Paula!

Labels: , , , , ,


Wednesday, June 18, 2008

How to Get Fabulously Straight Hair - Frizz free....by Paula Begoun

Hair-care products designed to help you straighten, smooth, and prevent frizz are everywhere, but the fact is you don't need a straight-hair, curly hair, or frizz-free hair routine to get great results. Actually, you don't need to focus solely on anti-frizz shampoos and conditioners, because they rarely differ from other shampoos and conditioners designed for other hair types, such as dry or color-treated (and when they do differ you are not going to see a difference in the results you get). It's more of a marketing angle than anything else. In the long run, the most important aspect of your hair care routine is the styling tools you use.

There are no products that can make hair smooth or put curls in place neatly all by themselves. You certainly have never seen a hair stylist put some shampoo, conditioner, and styling products in someone's hair and then send them on their way.

None of this means that there aren't some good shampoos and conditioners available to help make dry, frizzy hair smoother. Dove, Pantene, L'Oreal, and Garnier Fructis have brilliant (I mean really, really excellent) inexpensive options, as does John Frieda (which is a bit pricier but still is more reasonable than salon products). You may need to experiment to find which products work best for you--and they needn't be from the same brand.

A silicone hair serum is a concentrated product that is almost always non-aqueous and composed primarily of a silicone, such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane or phenyl trimethicone. These silicones are crucial for making hair look and feel healthy. In fact, they are so important that almost 85% of all hair care products contain them.

For fine or thin hair silicone serums are best used sparingly and for thick, coarse hair you can be a bit more generous. You can apply these on damp hair before heat styling and/or after styling to add more shine and reinforce a smooth, sleek style. If you are using a flat iron always keep in mind that hair must be completely dry (bone dry) before you use it. You can also use a straightening balm, gel, or lotion after the silicone serum to help hold hair in place. Combining them makes for smoother results and ensures greater heat protection than using either alone. Most women with curly, frizzy hair will find both products are needed to create and maintain a stick-straight hairstyle. You may also want to try applying the straightening balm, gel, or lotion first, and follow with a couple drops of silicone serum prior to heat styling. Experiment to see which order of application works best for you.

Just to reinforce the basics, be careful to use the silicone serum sparingly and not apply directly to roots, as this can make hair limp and create a greasy appearance. You may want to dispense a couple pumps of silicone serum in the palm of your hand, then mix with your straightening balm or lotion. The blend can be distributed through hair, beginning in the middle of hair's length, then working down toward the hair tips, then back up toward the roots (but stopping short of them for the reason mentioned earlier). After styling is finished, you can tame minor flyaway strands or frizzies with a dab more of either your straightening balm, lotion, or a teeny bit more of the silicone serum.

Source

Labels: , , , ,


Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Paula's B-List: Playing a Supporting Role to Help Skin Look its Best

Green Tea
Green tea works beautifully to reduce inflammation, provides powerful antioxidant benefits, and can reduce the harmful effects of sun exposure. Current research indicates that EGCG, an extract of green tea, can prevent collagen breakdown and reduce UV damage to skin. EGCG also has been shown to inhibit several types of MMP's, which means that EGCG can protect skin from aging. Green tea is easy to find in skin-care products, but you need to make sure it's present in a sufficient amount (if it is listed after the fragrance or preservatives, it likely won't amount to much for your skin). Studies on animals have shown that green tea also has an anticancer/antitumor effect on multiple organs, including skin.

Soy Isoflavones/Extract
Soy and its components are reliable antioxidants for skin, and have proven anti-inflammatory effects, which reduce signs of irritation. The increased use of soy extract in anti-aging products is largely due to studies showing that genistein (a component of soy) has a collagen-stimulating effect and that various compounds in soy affect skin thickness and elasticity. Other studies have shown that applying soy extract to animal skin and reconstituted human skin mitigates UVB damage and prevents DNA damage. Any ingredient that protects skin from UV light is worth seeking out!

Pomegranate
Pomegranate and its extracts have antioxidant and anticancer properties that, while not conclusively demonstrated on human skin, show promise in animal and in vitro studies. Pomegranate is rich in phytochemicals, compounds that exhibit a wide range of beneficial effects, particularly when consumed orally. Topical application of products containing pomegranate may improve the appearance of wrinkled skin by reducing inflammation and forestalling further damage.

Ceramides
Ceramides are part of skin's intercellular matrix, the "glue" that holds skin cells together and helps skin maintain its appearance. When the skin's barrier is compromised by damage from the sun, climate, irritating procedures or products, or other sources, the level of ceramides decreases. The skin's ceramide content can be replenished by using products that contain ceramides.

Linoleic/Linolenic Acids/ Phospholipids
All of these fatty acids replenish skin's intercellular matrix, preserving its appearance. In addition, all of them function as cell-communicating ingredients, working to "tell" the appropriate skin cells how to function in a healthier manner.

Thanks Paula!

Labels: , , , , ,


Paula Begoun's Anti-Aging Truth

Anti-aging and antiwrinkle are powerful buzzwords that capture the attention of women the world over. Each product sounds more incredible than the last. The claims make it a wonder that plastic surgeons haven't gone out of business.

There is only so much a cosmetic can do to provide the results we long for, and no skin-care product can even remotely work like or take the place of Botox, lasers, or dermal injections, despite the endless assertions from myriad cosmetic companies, including many doctor-owned lines where the doctors themselves offer such procedures.

But there also is good news: There are many products being sold whose ingredients have a proven track record of producing noticeable, sometimes cumulative, improvements in skin. Here is what we know for certain: Abundant research makes it crystal clear that these ingredients are indeed the state-of-the-art ingredients, especially when combined, that can make skin, dare I say it, fight the signs of aging! Without question, these are the types of ingredients you need in any lotion, cream, gel, serum, moisturizer, anti-aging, or anti-wrinkle product you use. If they're not in there, then why bother? And if they're not in an expensive product? That's a red flag that you're paying for fancy packaging and grandiose claims, not a truly elegant product.

Source

Labels: , , , , ,


Thursday, March 06, 2008

Paula Begoun's Product Review


NEUTROGENA Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Intensive SPF 20, Deep Wrinkle Moisturizing Treatment

It provides a convenient, elegant way for you to experience an in-part avobenzone sunscreen in a lightly moisturizing base with retinol and a tiny amount of water-binding agents. This isn’t at the same level of formulary excellence as Neutrogena’s tinted Healthy Skin Enhancer SPF 20 ($12.99), but it’s worth a try if you have normal to slightly oily skin. This product will not fill in the look of deep wrinkles within two weeks. That’s wishful thinking! Neutrogena should have settled for what works and left that claim alone.

Source

Labels: , , ,


Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Paula's Pick!

CLINIQUE Continuous Rescue Antioxidant Moisturizer, Combination to Oily Skin ($39.50 for 1.7 ounces).
Clinique is one of the few skin-care lines whose moisturizers typically contain lots of great antioxidants, and all of their Continuous Rescue moisturizers are packaged in opaque tubes, which is excellent. This version is suitable for combination skin, but too heavy for oily skin or oily areas. It contains well-researched emollients, silicone, slip agents, Vaseline, several antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and soothing plant extracts. The only frustrating element is that half of the really intriguing ingredients are listed after one of the preservatives, meaning that they’re basically window dressing rather than efficacious. However, even without the dustings of those ingredients this moisturizer can still be considered antioxidant-packed, and it is recommended for normal to slightly dry or slightly oily skin. And this moisturizer is fragrance-free. Find it!

Thanks Paula!

Labels: , , ,


This page is powered by Blogger. Isn't yours?